[Clayart] white glaze recipe

[ronroy at ca.inter.net]

Hi Alice,

This looks like a fairly stable glaze - there is no more F4 spar being  
mined so I have reformulated for another soda spar (min spar 200) -  
not much of a difference but - if you use the same amount of Min spar  
to replace the F4 the durability goes down a bit. I don't think there  
would be much difference in how it looks if you simply sub in the same  
amount of Min spar.

14.00  WHITING - snowwhite
27.50  SILICA
6.00  BALL CLAY OLD MINE #4
12.00  ZINC Oxide
2.00  BENTONITE
40.50  FELDSPAR MINSPAR 200 (soda)
Total = 102.0


0.41* CaO
0.01* MgO
0.05* K2O
0.12* Na2O
0.41* ZnO
0.00  Fe2O3
0.00  TiO2
0.26  Al2O3
2.77  SiO2

Si:Al:  10.70
SiB:Al:  10.70
Thermal Expansion: 472.44
Formula Weight: 262.58

Ron Roy

Quoting Alice DeLisle <wanderland at att.net>:

> On Dec 16, 2013, at 9:56 PM, clayart-request at lists.clayartworld.com wrote:
>
>> From: Judy Smith <smith2001ja at gmail.com>
>> Subject: [Clayart] white glaze recipe
>> Date: December 16, 2013 5:37:42 PM EST
>> To: Clayart <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
>>
>>
>> I make Bmix pottery and fire it in oxidation to cone 6.  I am looking for a
>> whitish semi-transparent slightly runny glaze like the one on the upped
>> portion of this beautiful Mary Cuzick bowl.  I have tried adding a little
>> tin oxide to a couple of my clear glazes and I just can't get it right.
>> Can anyone please send me a glaze to try.  Here is a link to the picture.
>> http://ww2.nscc.edu/smith_judy/cuzick1.jpg
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Judy Smith
>> Nashville, TN
>
>
> I have a glaze that I call Pink Pearl that looks similar to the  
> whitish glaze on that piece.  The glaze is pearly, pinkish, bluish  
> white.  It is Chun Clear with 3% rutile and 0.25% Spanish red iron  
> oxide.  Cone 6, oxidation.
> Chun Clear (CC)
> F4 feldspar	38
> whiting		14
> silica		30
> OM4		6
> zinc oxide	12
> plus 2% bentonite
>
> CC breaks beautifully on even the most subtle texture and I love it  
> for that.  I made myself a set of dinnerware using CC (with a mason  
> stain in it) and am very happy with the results.  CC can, however,  
> be a difficult glaze to work with.  With time, the glaze in the  
> bucket gets thicker but you can't just add water to adjust it.  Too  
> much water and it will form a hard pan in the bottom of the bucket  
> that won't re-suspend.  I add 0.75 ml of water per gram of glaze and  
> then adjust the consistency as needed with Darvan.  Sodium silicate  
> would also work.
>
> Another thing the CC can do is to leave tiny pock marks.  Before  
> dipping a piece in the glaze, I use a tiny brush to put glaze in any  
> crevices, like where a handle is attached, etc.  After dipping and  
> drying the glaze, I  brush the surface with my finger to remove any  
> visible pock marks in the unfired glaze.  If there are pock marks  
> that are bigger than tiny, I might use the tiny brush to fill in  
> with glaze.
>
> I am planning to try the same colorants in different transparent  
> glossy bases but haven't gotten around to it.  But that is what I  
> would suggest that you do unless you want to deal with the  
> idiocyncrasies of CC.
>
> Good luck,
> Alice DeLisle
>
> wanderland at att.net
> http://www.etsy.com/shop/IslandTextures
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/alice_delisle/
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>



Ron Roy
ronroy at ca.inter.net