[Clayart] Re; Three-pin Soldner heads

Paul Gerhold via Clayart clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
Thu Aug 7 11:06:07 EDT 2014


WD40 is not really a good oil for this purpose and will not work over the long haul.  Best bet would be a grease such as axle grease which will not evaporate over time.  

For removal of the head would recommend gradual tapping on the wheel head bottom as close to the shaft as possible.  I use a piece of hardwood about one inch by two inch an about a foot long to transfer the force from the hammer to the wheel head.  If this doesn't work you can try heating the wheel head and then tapping.

Paul



Sent from my iPad

On Aug 6, 2014, at 7:34 PM, Fredrick Paget via Clayart <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com> wrote:

> I have a Jepson wheel with the Morse tapered shaft on the head shaft. A Morse taper locks due to the low angle  and need a a good tap in the upward direction to spring it free.
> 
> I have an old skin diving weight that weighs about 4 pounds and is flat enough that I can put it on the flat of my hand and get under the head with some free play. I give it a good tap in the upward direction and it springs free.  Keep the taper oiled with WD40 to prevent rust.
> 
> If you want more info see Wikipedia: <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper>
> 
> 
> 
> Fred Paget
> Twin Dragon Studio
> Mill Valley, CA, USA
> 
> 
> 
>> Yes, Soldner did build wheels for a while with a three-pin bat system back in the early eighties. My manual for our wheel of that vintage says that the wheelhead is of the "tapered shaft" type, which might require the help of a machine shop to remove.
>> 
>> 
>> ?We are still using one that was sold as a kit, and it is still one of the best wheels in the studio.
>> 
>> 
>> Good luck!
>> 
>> 
>> Glenn Dair
>> 
>> Callanwolde/Atlanta
> 
> 
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