[Clayart] pressing ceramics with air release

MAYNARD mleeman at bellsouth.net
Mon Mar 3 22:23:39 EST 2014


Hey there

Go to a web site

www.cowtown ceramics.com

The guy has  some video's and pdf files showing exactly how  to make tile 
molds that use air to release the  tiles.

he also sells supplies to make the  molds and  sells a manual tile press.

This  is not  what you were requesting,  but  I really think  it  will 
answer your questions!

Sincerely,

Maynard Leeman
ml


--------------------------------------------------
From: <clayart-request at lists.clayartworld.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2014 7:23 PM
To: <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
Subject: Clayart Digest, Vol 5, Issue 3

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> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: installing mol duct into plaster mold (Des & Jan Howard)
>   2. Re: Chemistry/light, why is cobalt blue? (ivor and olive lewis)
>   3. Re: installing mol duct into plaster mold (PETER HAMER)
>   4. Re: "What's in a name?" glazes (David Woof)
>   5. Refractory for slump molds? (Constance Woodman)
>   6. Two Spar Glazes #3 (Edouard Bastarache)
>   7. 2 spar whites (douglas fur)
>   8. Re: Refractory for slump molds? (David Woof)
>   9. installing mol duct into plaster mold (Don Goodrich)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2014 15:56:57 +1100
> From: Des & Jan Howard <djhoward at hwy.com.au>
> To: Clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] installing mol duct into plaster mold
> Message-ID: <5312BA19.5010006 at hwy.com.au>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Buy a copy of "Pressing Ceramics with Air Release", by
> Reid Harvey. Covers thing very well in a small booklet.
> Available at large ceramic material supplier, whose
> name evades me.
> Des
>
>> On 3/1/2014 2:28 PM, Kathleen Morrell wrote:
>>> I am making a mold that requires compressed air
>>> release.  I have the molduct and regular plastic
>>> tubing and did one prototype that didn't work so well.
>>>
>>> I have a probably really dumb question.  Do you close
>>> of one end of the molduct so that the pressurized air
>>> has to be forced out inside the plaster?
>>>
>>> I have scoured the internet looking for detailed
>>> instructions on how to install molduct into a plaster
>>> mold...but haven't gotten the detail I need.  In the
>>> Ceramics Arts Daily article about molds for double
>>> walled vessels, it shows photos of the molduct being
>>> laid in the mold but doesn't show the end and doesn't
>>> mention if you close off one end.
>>>
>>> Does anyone out there use molduct and compressed air
>>> to release trapped molds?
>
>
> -- 
> Des & Jan Howard
> Lue Pottery
> Lue  NSW
> Australia
> 2850
>
> 02 6373 6419
> www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
> -32.656072 149.840624
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2014 16:29:05 +1030
> From: "ivor and olive lewis" <iandol at westnet.com.au>
> To: "Janet Leatherwood" <janet.leatherwood at gmail.com>,
> <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] Chemistry/light, why is cobalt blue?
> Message-ID: <16F93DE8D42B4CE582A0D07F7BC76D9D at LewisPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> Dear Janet Leatherwood,
> Now somewhat dated, though still in print,W, A. Weyl, "Coloured Glasses"
> gives a comprehensive view of the elements we use from the transition
> elements and a few more from the Periodic Table which we ignore.
> Regards,
> Ivor Lewis,
> REDHILL,
> South Australia
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2014 13:22:56 +0000 (GMT)
> From: PETER HAMER <p.hamer at btinternet.com>
> To: Des & Jan Howard <djhoward at hwy.com.au>,
> "Clayart at lists.clayartworld.com" <Clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] installing mol duct into plaster mold
> Message-ID:
> <1393766576.35724.YahooMailNeo at web87704.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Looks like Axner
> http://www.axner.com/pressing-ceramics-with-air-release.aspx
>
> Regards, Peter
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Des & Jan Howard <djhoward at hwy.com.au>
> To: Clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
> Sent: Sunday, 2 March 2014, 4:56
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] installing mol duct into plaster mold
>
>
> Buy a copy of "Pressing Ceramics with Air Release", by Reid Harvey. Covers 
> thing very well in a small booklet. Available at large ceramic material 
> supplier, whose name evades me.
> Des
>
>> On 3/1/2014 2:28 PM, Kathleen Morrell wrote:
>>> I am making a mold that requires compressed air
>>> release.? I have the molduct and regular plastic
>>> tubing and did one prototype that didn't work so well.
>>>
>>> I have a probably really dumb question.? Do you close
>>> of one end of the molduct so that the pressurized air
>>> has to be forced out inside the plaster?
>>>
>>> I have scoured the internet looking for detailed
>>> instructions on how to install molduct into a plaster
>>> mold...but haven't gotten the detail I need.? In the
>>> Ceramics Arts Daily article about molds for double
>>> walled vessels, it shows photos of the molduct being
>>> laid in the mold but doesn't show the end and doesn't
>>> mention if you close off one end.
>>>
>>> Does anyone out there use molduct and compressed air
>>> to release trapped molds?
>
>
> -- Des & Jan Howard
> Lue Pottery
> Lue? NSW
> Australia
> 2850
>
> 02 6373 6419
> www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
> -32.656072 149.840624
>
> _______________________________________________
> Clayart mailing list
> Clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
> http://lists.clayartworld.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/clayart
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2014 13:37:38 -0700
> From: David Woof <woofpots at hotmail.com>
> To: douglas fur <23drb50 at gmail.com>, <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] "What's in a name?" glazes
> Message-ID: <SNT150-W9347AAD4C7E3A5EA293A7AC68C0 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hi DRB, Everyone,
>
> Doug brings up the "ethical" issue in this thread and I think it is the 
> place to start and the where-with-all of how we conduct ourselves as 
> professionals in our field.   This also applies in my mind, with equal 
> expectation, to those who are involved in Ceramics as part time hobby, 
> avocation, retired corporate escapee living the dream........ Though 
> perhaps not considering one's self as a Professional; striving for 
> Professionalism, and the attitude of professional courtesy is with-in 
> reach of all.  It informs our work, makes it stronger by the ethical 
> strength within us.   When honesty in our work is readily perceived, no 
> defense for our character is needed.
>
> Though our handing down glazes, and reformulating or formulating new is 
> not entirely applicable to writing a paper,  our work too comes under 
> scrutiny of the words, concepts, definitions of; Quote, Paraphrase, 
> Summarizing and Plagiarism.
>
> It is good to review these and remember that: Plagiarism is copying 
> without crediting the source.  Plagiarism is stealing!    And DRB touches 
> on this with his questions regarding reworking existing glazes which in 
> one sense could connote paraphrasing which in writing must be cited, as a 
> professional courtesy, in a footnote, endnote, or parenthetical notation.
>
> Ron and John demonstrate attentiveness to these issues when we see 
> "Xavier's Warm Jade Reformulated by RR" etc.
>
>>From where and whom does the new or next generation of Ceramists get their 
>>example?    From the few cheaters among us?  The few who, since Glaze 
>>Calc. programs have come into vogue making unity formulas instantly 
>>accessible, have taken old glazes, usually written as whole percentages, 
>>and now describe them to one hundredth percents and publish with their 
>>name or a new name replacing the original credit.   I'm sure we have all 
>>noticed this if our interest and experience level makes it so.
>
> And while I know how I have and will continue to conduct myself in this 
> regard,  I too leave the question open to hear what others think in this 
> regard.
>
> Best to all,
>
> David Woof............. World domination, the Nobel Prize, or..... getting 
> our name on a glaze or clay body are but futile attempts at immortality. 
> Let's have some fun while we fake adulthood, enlightenment, or what 
> ever........
> **********************************************************************************************************
>
>> Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 09:55:16 -0800
>> From: 23drb50 at gmail.com
>> To: clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
>> Subject: [Clayart] "What's in a name?" glazes
>>
>> It's an interesting ethical question; when does a glaze become your own?.
>> Mel uses "Rhodes' 32" but are the spar, clay and other ingredients the 
>> same
>> as Rhodes used 50 years ago? I'm working on a glaze Cardew attributed to
>> Parmalee. He gives the Seger formula and an example with Nigerian
>> materials. I have no clue what materials Parmalee would have chosen and
>> I've adapted the formula for ^6 and the materials I have on hand.
>> You could argue that we have made these glazes our own, Mel's Matte or
>> Parma-Red, but I think it's more useful to recognize the roots of our 
>> work.
>> To share in an open source style who we are and where we've come from. 
>> The
>> effect is to say this is my pot and the name tells about its roots.
>> There is something about shifting a name, as mentioned in an earlier 
>> post,
>> from Wirt's Carbon Trap to Malcolm's Carbon Trap that's insincere. It's 
>> as
>> if putting a more "famous" name on a glaze increases the quality of the 
>> pot
>> on which the glaze is used. The assumption is that the authority of the
>> famous can be transferred to the pot. It's the opposite of self 
>> expression
>> and why we make things.
>>
>> DRB
>> Seola Creek
>> _______________________________________________
>> Clayart mailing list
>> Clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
>> http://lists.clayartworld.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/clayart
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2014 16:21:15 -0500
> From: Constance Woodman <gryphus at gmail.com>
> To: clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
> Subject: [Clayart] Refractory for slump molds?
> Message-ID:
> <CAO7SiFBLWa3qBx7x4qCaQoBAqvT4VPjNeMRfE5Xkec-kFEVrAw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> I am interested in slumping glass to complement ceramic forms. However, I
> have never made a glass slumping mold before.
>
> On the advice of several fairly inexperienced people I am going to try and
> mix 50/50 plaster and powdered quartz sand for one time use slumping molds
> that can handle 1400 F.  The reason I am trying a plaster mold over a
> bisqueware mold is that I've been told I won't need to kiln wash or
> otherwise prep a plaster mold.
>
> Any thoughts from those who have done both ceramic and glass?
>
> -Connie
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2014 16:30:31 -0500
> From: "Edouard Bastarache" <edouardb at colba.net>
> To: "Clayart" <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Cc: In?s Ponsot <inesponsot at gmail.com>, michel lemire
> <lemirepellerininc07 at hotmail.com>, Bastarache Albert
> <albert.bastarache at sympatico.ca>, "Smart.Conseil"
> <smart2000 at wanadoo.fr>
> Subject: [Clayart] Two Spar Glazes #3
> Message-ID: <DC5EEDC5D6F44842B716D3F6FFDA1F84 at 131e578496f624>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
>
> http://twospar3.blogspot.ca/
>
> Plejkore,
>
> Edouard Bastarache
> Spertesperantisto
>
> Sorel-Tracy
> Quebec
>
> http://edouardyoutube.blogspot.ca/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/30058682@N00/
> http://glazeblogs.blogspot.ca/
> http://bookslivreslibroj.blogspot.ca/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2014 15:27:07 -0800
> From: douglas fur <23drb50 at gmail.com>
> To: clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
> Subject: [Clayart] 2 spar whites
> Message-ID:
> <CAHDmDVuiODuJw0wbV94NZjxHvfyZy6cmq1i5zmEp7-vD0J-DQg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Cher Monsieur le Docteur
> Zinc zirconium silicate is like Tantalus' grapes to me. A zinc source 
> which
> doesn't have to be reground to avoid granules in the glaze and an 
> opacifier
> to boot. But the esthetics are just out of reach. How to get a white glaze
> which is not too shiny or too white. This may not be your esthetic goal 
> for
> these glazes but for me I'd look to add some MgO to matte the surface or
> some dirty material like wood ash to break up the whiteness.
>
> DRB
> Seola Creek
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2014 17:03:56 -0700
> From: David Woof <woofpots at hotmail.com>
> To: Constance Woodman <gryphus at gmail.com>,
> <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] Refractory for slump molds?
> Message-ID: <SNT150-W41960C2F677B16F0425C98C68F0 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hi Constance,
>
> 50/50 plaster/silica is a common recipe for one time use and not going to 
> higher fusing temps.  Glass itself, also being of silica, will cause you 
> glass/mold fusing problems at higher temps.
>
> If later you want a more sturdy mold, add grog and EPK clay to the mix. 
> The refractory silica is contributed by the EPK along with refractory 
> quality from the alumina it also contains and you get enhancement from the 
> EPK as a binding agent for the recipe constituents.
>
> Mold wash of 60 alumina and 40 EPK works to fusing temp, and for casting 
> in molds I use an 80/20 ratio.   One can have a lot of fun working in 
> these three categories of hot glass.
>
> Best of experiences,
>
> David Woof
> ************************************
>
>
>> From: gryphus at gmail.com
>> Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2014 16:21:15 -0500
>> To: clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
>> Subject: [Clayart] Refractory for slump molds?
>>
>> I am interested in slumping glass to complement ceramic forms. However, I
>> have never made a glass slumping mold before.
>>
>> On the advice of several fairly inexperienced people I am going to try 
>> and
>> mix 50/50 plaster and powdered quartz sand for one time use slumping 
>> molds
>> that can handle 1400 F.  The reason I am trying a plaster mold over a
>> bisqueware mold is that I've been told I won't need to kiln wash or
>> otherwise prep a plaster mold.
>>
>> Any thoughts from those who have done both ceramic and glass?
>>
>> -Connie
>> _______________________________________________
>> Clayart mailing list
>> Clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
>> http://lists.clayartworld.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/clayart
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2014 16:17:42 -0800
> From: "Don Goodrich" <djg at dongoodrichpottery.com>
> To: "ClayArt" <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Subject: [Clayart] installing mol duct into plaster mold
> Message-ID: <4643fb43$44c573fd$7d295650$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi Kathleen,
>   It took some digging, but I found the answer to your question.
> It's in Reid Harvey's book "Pressing Ceramics With Air Release",
> published by Gentle Breeze in 1993. ISBN 1-889250-00-7.
> Quoting from page 10:
>   "After tying down all necessary tubing, cut it at the end, in the center
> of the screen.
> Turn a little moist clay, or modeling clay into a coil. Push this into the
> hole at the end of the tubing to plug it.
> Now fold this over and tie it off with a piece of the wire. This blocks 
> off
> the end of the coil."
>
> Another person who has some experience with this is Terry Sullivan of
> Nottingham Center for the Arts.
> I haven't seen him or Reid on ClayArt in some years, but hopefully someone
> with air-release experience will turn up.
>
> Hope this helps,
>   Don Goodrich
>
> goodrichdn at aol.com
>
> http://dongoodrichpottery.com/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
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> ------------------------------
>
> End of Clayart Digest, Vol 5, Issue 3
> ************************************* 




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