[Clayart] Clayart Digest, Vol 1, Issue 47

Marian Parkes mlparkes at gmail.com
Mon Dec 21 15:05:22 EST 2015


I have a used but in good shape small test kiln (18" size), would that be a good size to try this with?  I'll be eventually replacing the test kiln with a larger electric for oxidation only firings.

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> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2015 09:16:00 -0600
> From: mel jacobson <melpots2 at visi.com>
> To: clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
> Subject: [Clayart] gas/electric
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> 
> i have had some questions and thought i should
> go over this again..esp since it is fresh from the building.
> 
> gas/electric kiln.
> as taught to me by nils lou.
> take one electric kiln.
> take it all apart...clean it very well.
> 
> brush out all the debris, and wash it.
> yes, wash it....brush and water.  rinse with a hose.
> hard.
> drill an inch and a half hole in the bottom center of the kiln and the
> lid of the kiln.
> 
> order new coils, (euclids would be easy) or the originals.
> 
> clean them well with bleach, use a toothbrush.
> 
> coat the coils with itc 213 metal coat.
> follow itc instructions..  i used a tray for sheet rock mud...long and narrow.
> 
> hang them to dry.
> 
> wet the inside of the kiln with water..use your sprayer.
> spray the entire inside of the electric kiln and the channels for
> the coils with an even coat of itc 100.
> 
> let it dry.
> 
> install coils as to original instructions that came with the kiln.
> re/install and check all kiln sitter parts.
> 
> make sure the fittings are tight and clean...sandpaper the connections.
> make them shine.
> 
> spray the entire kiln, coils and all with a coat of itc100...make sure
> it is all covered....well.
> 
> dry, then fire the kiln to cone 08 or so.
> 
> i then sprayed the entire kiln with a coat of itc296a top coat.
> let it dry....make sure you spray the holes full that carry the
> coils to the outside of the kiln...don't want reduction leaking
> out the coils into the electrical.
> 
> buy a nice bunsen burner( propane) order from Frey Scientific.
> connect it to a 25 pound propane cyl.  rubber hose to a propane
> connection (pol), then a clamp on the bunsen burner connection.
> we installed a regulator.
> 
> load and start kiln...we staggered the pots on half shelves.
> 
> fire with electric only until you reach 1750F.
> 
> turn on the gas, light and place the bunsen burner under the
> kiln so that the flame goes up the hole in the bottom.
> 
> place a piece of kiln shelf over the top hole a small way, move until
> you get an inch or more flame from your spy hole on the side of
> the kiln.  fire this way til the sitter drops.
> 
> we fired to cone 10.
> about 5 hours...the gas kicks it up fast...really works well.
> turn off gas.
> button up kiln...kaowool plugs in the top and bottom holes.
> we fired back up at about 1750...as we had a great many
> reds in the kiln.
> 
> open kiln.
> nice red, shino, good body color.
> 
> typical stoneware reduction firing.
> and a very easy project to make...took about two hours one day.
> maybe two hours second day.
> mel
> perhaps nils will correct or comment on this method.
> 
> for the cheapos out there...do not try and itc coat old coils..it
> will not work. buy new.
> 
> i would not do this with a beat out kiln....try and find a decent
> used body....repair cracks and stuff first.  you want a clean, tight
> soft brick surface to coat with itc.
> 
> we used some thin sheets of kaowool as a gasket on the top
> rim of the kiln...want that tight.
> 
> we fired in the barn, with great cross venting.
> you should be able to use standard electric kiln venting.
> but, take care, use your head....it will fire hotter than
> you are used to...and the reduction must me vented.
> 
> we put a piece of kaowool over the hose under the kiln
> just so it would not be heat affected.  and we protected
> the main electric cable of the kiln.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> from: minnetonka, mn
> website:http://www.melpots.com
> new book: http://www.21stcenturykilns.com
> http://www.melpots.com/clayart.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 



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