[Clayart] bowls that match

Ken Chase kchase235 at gmail.com
Sun Oct 16 10:36:33 EDT 2016


Hello:
I would love to see one of these devices.
What would I call one in an internet search?
I've never seen one and it sounds like a good
Tool to have.
Thanks
Ken

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 15, 2016, at 3:43 PM, Tommy Humphries <tommyhumphries at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> Yep, the height gauge for height and rim diameter, along with what we called scrap sticks (so named because you use them to remove scrap clay to the diameter desired for the pot bottom) will go a long way to consistent sizing of pots. 
> 
> Clay weight plays an even greater part in this endeavor.
> 
> I was once doing a demonstration for a group of frou-frou ladies from a local garden club. I was making a series of simple mug shapes just using 1.5 pound prices of clay. Of course most of these were coming out a consistent height, even with no gauges. 
> 
> One lady just had to ask, how I got all the pots to come out the same size. My answer, of course, was that "the most important thing is to make sure your balls are the same size". 
> 
> My crowd of spectators mysteriously shrunk after that...
> 
> Tommy Humphries. 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Oct 15, 2016, at 3:57 PM, Vince Pitelka <vpitelka at dtccom.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Jeff - 
>> You could try what I did in production.  I adapted an old chemistry ring stand and made a throwing gauge with an adjustable horizontal arm to establish the height and diameter of the rim.  I made a set of wood gauges (one for each size of bowl) with a peg that ran against the outer edge of the wheelhead, while the inner end of the gauge would determine the diameter of the foot (just a straight piece of hardwood with a peg through one end, and the other trimmed at a slight angle to cut the foot).  Finally I used a wood rib to establish the curvature.  
>> 
>> When the rim is always the same height and diameter, and the foot is always the same diameter, and then you use the same rib to always determine the curvature, they end up stacking perfectly.  
>> 
>> I weighed my lumps, of course, and I'd initially throw a flared form with straight walls angled outwards (no curve), bring the rim to the height and diameter indicated by the throwing gauge.  Then I'd use the wood gauge to trim in the foot, and then the rib to get the curvature.  It was quick and effective. 
>> - Vince
>> 
>> Vince Pitelka
>> Appalachian Center for Craft
>> Tennessee Tech University
>> vpitelka at dtccom.net  
>> https://sites.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Clayart [mailto:clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Lawrence
>> Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2016 11:57 AM
>> To: clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
>> Subject: [Clayart] bowls that match
>> 
>> Hi,
>> Stimulated by the descriptions of repetitive throwing, I'd appreciate hearing how others have solved my bowl challenges.
>> My rims and feet are pretty consistent and when viewed side-by-side, the pieces look well matched, but the curve of the walls differs enough that they nest unevenly. It doesn't help that I've just started throwing porcelain which wants to flop after only three or four pulls.  Things got better when I tried for all my height those pulls, then used ribs to shape and dry the walls, but still aren't great.
>> Aside from going the jolly jigger route, what are some ways to whip my bowl walls into better conformity? Contoured ribs/templates? Throw ten thousand bowls, grasshopper?
>> Thanks,
>> Jeff
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