[Clayart] Best Soak Procedure for Cone 10 gas redux.
hmurrow at efn.org
Sat Oct 22 10:28:44 EDT 2016
I began doing the soak in oxidation because my kiln is a fiber-lined kiln and probably cools faster than yours. That said, I think you may be surprised ho different the Shinos will look it you give them a soak in oxidation, meaning no visible back pressure anywhere and just enough gas to keep it at a constant temperature as indicated by your thermocouple. I was surprised that it would hold steady on just ⅓ pressure, but more surprised by how clean it had to be____ .06 on the OxyProbe
Cheers from Ogami, Hyogo, Japan; loading the anagama to light Wednesdy evening.
On Oct 22, 2016, at 7:00 AM, Vince Pitelka <vpitelka at DTCCOM.NET> wrote:
> Hi Dan -
> I like what Hank wrote about on oxidation soak on the down-ramp to get more fire color in shinos, and I look forward to trying that next time we have a lot of shinos in the kiln. We don't really do a reduction soak. I do not find any benefit in it. We do an hour of body reduction at cone 012 for shinos and copper reds, or at 08 if we only want speckles in stoneware. I suppose you could call that a soak. After body reduction we do a partial reduction (climbing reduction) to maturity, and then when cone-10 is down we do a 15-minute oxidation soak to clean up the colors and encourage reoxidation where glazes are thin. At the end of the firing when the burners are shut off we close the damper for two hours to slow things down a bit through the ideal temperature for desirable crystal growth, and then open it up for reasonable cooling. This is all in a big downdraft IFB kiln that cools really slowly if the damper is left closed, so we open it after 2-4 hours.
> - Vince
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