[Clayart] Throughing thinner?

David Woof woofpots at hotmail.com
Thu Oct 27 14:47:53 EDT 2016

Hi Susi,

Throwing "light" has its place, but not as has been already said; in "functional ware" ("vessels of domestic utility")

It is a great exercise in learning to utilize all the clay in a lump that is possible. And one will develop a manual and conscious sensitivity in handling the clay that produces better form and expressive communication in the pieces.

(Imagine your spirit flying and your untrained hands dragging you back to earth) We've all started this way I'm quite sure.

When we speak of "door stops" pots it is the too thick bottom areas of the pot that didn't get attention in forming and trimming.

Problems with cracking of the bottoms during drying are in part from the too thick bottom drying last after the rim and upper walls have dried and so locked the bottom from the drying shrinkage it needs to do in relation to the pot as a whole.

Bottoms of proper thickness in relation to the pot, form and intended function are the foundation to learn and work from.

David Woof.........

From: Clayart <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com> on behalf of Susie Hite <hiteshome at bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2016 8:04 AM
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
Subject: Re: [Clayart] Throughing thinner?

I don't usually comment, but I understand the desire to throw thinner.  I love a lot of the Japanese pottery and it is usually thin.  I have unfortunately found that when I throw thin it almost always warps.I feel your pain. The few times I've been successful was when I was able to put a piece of news paper over the rim as soon as it was firm enough not deform the bowl, then when it was leather hard finish drying upside down.  Also bisque fire upside down.  There's no guarantee it won't warp in the glaze firing. =0(After all that it's still as Vince said very fragile.It's still fun to try every once in a while.
Good Luck!!!Susie

    On Wednesday, October 26, 2016 9:58 PM, ran mcc <ranmcc at msn.com> wrote:

 Guess it was just a thought. Been making pottery for 40 years.  No training.  No mentors.  Pretty isolated from the clay community except for clay art.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Vince Pitelka
Date:10/26/2016 9:06 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Clayart international pottery discussion forum'
Subject: Re: [Clayart] Throughing thinner?

Hi Randy -
I am curious as to why you would want to lighten them up more.  "Too light" is a real problem in functional ceramics.  Unless this is a conceptual project to produce non-functional "bowls," the weight in your bowls serves an important purpose.
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka at dtccom.net
Vince Pitelka – Tennessee Technological University ...<https://sites.tntech.edu/wpitelka/>
I have been a studio clay artist for 45 years, teaching clay since 1986, the last 22 years in Tennessee Technological University’s School of Art, Craft, and Design ...

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com] On Behalf Of ran mcc
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:19 AM
To: ClayArt <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
Subject: [Clayart] Throughing thinner?

I like to throw 12lb bowls that usually will reach to 18 to 19 inches.  Using Red Stone from Carolina Clay.  12lb bowls will fire out to about 7lbs with glaze.  I would like to get these bowls lighter in final weight.  I know I can make sure the bottom is minimum thickness,  I know I can trim as much as possible.  I just don't want to get warped bowls.  Are there some techniques you can share to get pieces as thin and light as possible without causing warping in the fire?  Suggestions on maybe a better clay that will hold up better to thin throwing without warping?  Any other suggestions?  Thanks for any help.

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