[Clayart] Throwing thinner?

canyoncreekpottery canyoncreekpottery at persona.ca
Sun Oct 30 12:56:12 EDT 2016


Hi Jim. For larger pieces after throwing the clay to the size bowl I want, I will reverse the wheel rotation and compress with a rib held obliquely on the rim and with my left hand supporting the outside underneath. Sometimes I'll use another rib on the outside opposite the inside rib. I follow through compressing towards the bottom inside of the bowl and compress and shape some more on my way back up. Using a rib, the compression of the clay against the direction it was thrown helps strengthen the pot and helps fine tune the finished shape.

On 10/30/16 09:18 AM, woodfirejim at gmail.com wrote:

> 
> Hi Paul. Will you give more details about throwing in both directions? I have not heard this tip before. I am assuming it has to do with removing any clay memory of a spiral, but when do you do it? Just for certain shapes, big sizes, or thicknesses of ware? Do you alternate throughout the throwing, or start one way and end the other?
> 
> Thanks
> Jim
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> > On Oct 28, 2016, at 05:39, Paul Gerhold <gerholdclay at gmail.com> wrote:
> > 
> > Two things nobody has mentioned if you are really interested in super thin pots. 
> > First is picking the right clay and second is throwing with the wheel rotating both clockwise and counterclockwise. 
> > 
> > Paul
> > 
> > Sent from my iPad
> > 
> >> On Oct 27, 2016, at 8:18 PM, ran mcc <ranmcc at msn.com> wrote:
> >> 
> >> Robert I would like a pic of your bowl.
> >> ranmcc at msn.com
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
> >> 
> >> 
> >> -------- Original message --------
> >> From: Robert Harris
> >> Date:10/27/2016 4:10 PM (GMT-05:00)
> >> To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
> >> Subject: Re: [Clayart] Throughing thinner?
> >> 
> >> I throw thin and occasionally I get warping especially on bowls the size of
> >> the ones Randy is talking about.
> >> 
> >> If you're having problems with deformation while the pot is plastic I would
> >> suggest a) throwing with less water (easier said than done!) and 2) zapping
> >> it with a blow torch/heatgun before you take it off the wheel.
> >> 3) Don't trim the base by resting such a large bowl on its rim. I throw a
> >> large chuck which the centre and strongest part of the bowl rests on.
> >> It is also important to dry these things as evenly as possible. (Slow is
> >> not necessarily better, just evenly). The easiest way to do this is put it
> >> in some sort of box with holes in it.
> >> 
> >> None of this really helps with true warpage (as opposed to plastic
> >> deformation) in the glaze kiln. For that there is really only one
> >> suggestion and one "real" solution. The first suggestion is to make sure
> >> your kiln shelves are dead flat - and if possible as even as possible. For
> >> a large bowl I put it on an extra kiln shelf that I know is flat, and level
> >> it with fibre or wadding (I don't go overboard on getting it level but I do
> >> spend a couple of extra minutes).
> >> 
> >> But the real solution is ENGINEERING! Design a bowl that can be large and
> >> thin and won't warp.
> >> 
> >> Everyone has a different "look" to their bowl so it's a bit difficult for
> >> me to advise what to do, but the most obvious thing to do is to thicken up
> >> your rim. Just like Susie's newspaper trick, a thicker rim will go a fair
> >> way to preventing warpage. You can then run into the problem that Vince
> >> mentioned where the pot looks lighter than it "should", however. Personally
> >> I throw a large flange type lip on my large bowls that is about 25 degrees
> >> above the horizontal. It actually has a slight curve in it that strengthens
> >> it, and this flange has a very thick rim on it, which is less noticeable as
> >> it's edge on to the viewer (the flange itself can be reasonable thin).
> >> 
> >> Also consider increasing the diameter of your foot a little. Finally make
> >> sure the wall of the bowl has a true taper. With the exception of the rim
> >> (which we've discussed and which should be well compressed!), the walls
> >> must be as evenly tapered to the top as possible (including the flange, if
> >> you have one). I once threw a bowl (about 20", wet) where the bottom 1/3
> >> was either the same thickness or marginally thinner than the top 1/3 and
> >> the whole thing just sat down around the foot! Basically if you get
> >> everything as even as possible (and of course this includes as little
> >> wobble as possible in the thrown form!) then you'll minimize the chance of
> >> warpage.
> >> 
> >> Finally ... try to embrace a little bit of warpage! It's a handmade pot
> >> after all! I have recently mentioned the diamond lap disc I have for
> >> smoothing off feet. With a bit of work it can flatten the foot of a warped
> >> bowl, so that at least there's no rocking.
> >> 
> >> Hope that helps,
> >> 
> >> Robert
> >> 
> >> P.S. I'm happy to send pictures directly of the type of large wide bowls I
> >> make if anyone is interested.
> >> 
> >> 
> >>> On Thu, Oct 27, 2016 at 8:04 AM, Susie Hite <hiteshome at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> >>> 
> >>> I don't usually comment, but I understand the desire to throw thinner. I
> >>> love a lot of the Japanese pottery and it is usually thin. I have
> >>> unfortunately found that when I throw thin it almost always warps.I feel
> >>> your pain. The few times I've been successful was when I was able to put a
> >>> piece of news paper over the rim as soon as it was firm enough not deform
> >>> the bowl, then when it was leather hard finish drying upside down. Also
> >>> bisque fire upside down. There's no guarantee it won't warp in the glaze
> >>> firing. =0(After all that it's still as Vince said very fragile.It's still
> >>> fun to try every once in a while.
> >>> Good Luck!!!Susie
> >>> 
> >>> On Wednesday, October 26, 2016 9:58 PM, ran mcc <ranmcc at msn.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> Guess it was just a thought. Been making pottery for 40 years. No
> >>> training. No mentors. Pretty isolated from the clay community except for
> >>> clay art.
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> -------- Original message --------
> >>> From: Vince Pitelka
> >>> Date:10/26/2016 9:06 PM (GMT-05:00)
> >>> To: 'Clayart international pottery discussion forum'
> >>> Subject: Re: [Clayart] Throughing thinner?
> >>> 
> >>> Hi Randy -
> >>> I am curious as to why you would want to lighten them up more. "Too
> >>> light" is a real problem in functional ceramics. Unless this is a
> >>> conceptual project to produce non-functional "bowls," the weight in your
> >>> bowls serves an important purpose.
> >>> - Vince
> >>> 
> >>> Vince Pitelka
> >>> Appalachian Center for Craft
> >>> Tennessee Tech University
> >>> vpitelka at dtccom.net
> >>> https://sites.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Clayart [mailto:clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com] <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com]> On Behalf
> >>> Of ran mcc
> >>> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:19 AM
> >>> To: ClayArt <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> >>> Subject: [Clayart] Throughing thinner?
> >>> 
> >>> I like to throw 12lb bowls that usually will reach to 18 to 19 inches.
> >>> Using Red Stone from Carolina Clay. 12lb bowls will fire out to about 7lbs
> >>> with glaze. I would like to get these bowls lighter in final weight. I
> >>> know I can make sure the bottom is minimum thickness, I know I can trim as
> >>> much as possible. I just don't want to get warped bowls. Are there some
> >>> techniques you can share to get pieces as thin and light as possible
> >>> without causing warping in the fire? Suggestions on maybe a better clay
> >>> that will hold up better to thin throwing without warping? Any other
> >>> suggestions? Thanks for any help.
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> Randy
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