[Clayart] Throwing thinner?

Ken Chase kchase235 at gmail.com
Sun Oct 30 14:33:59 EDT 2016


As a novice this is great info for me too.
I add my thanks too.
Ken

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 30, 2016, at 9:56 AM, canyoncreekpottery <canyoncreekpottery at persona.ca> wrote:
> 
> Hi Jim. For larger pieces after throwing the clay to the size bowl I want, I will reverse the wheel rotation and compress with a rib held obliquely on the rim and with my left hand supporting the outside underneath. Sometimes I'll use another rib on the outside opposite the inside rib. I follow through compressing towards the bottom inside of the bowl and compress and shape some more on my way back up. Using a rib, the compression of the clay against the direction it was thrown helps strengthen the pot and helps fine tune the finished shape.
> 
>> On 10/30/16 09:18 AM, woodfirejim at gmail.com wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Hi Paul. Will you give more details about throwing in both directions? I have not heard this tip before. I am assuming it has to do with removing any clay memory of a spiral, but when do you do it? Just for certain shapes, big sizes, or thicknesses of ware? Do you alternate throughout the throwing, or start one way and end the other?
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Jim
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Oct 28, 2016, at 05:39, Paul Gerhold <gerholdclay at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Two things nobody has mentioned if you are really interested in super thin pots. 
>>> First is picking the right clay and second is throwing with the wheel rotating both clockwise and counterclockwise. 
>>> 
>>> Paul
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> 
>>>> On Oct 27, 2016, at 8:18 PM, ran mcc <ranmcc at msn.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Robert I would like a pic of your bowl.
>>>> ranmcc at msn.com
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -------- Original message --------
>>>> From: Robert Harris
>>>> Date:10/27/2016 4:10 PM (GMT-05:00)
>>>> To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
>>>> Subject: Re: [Clayart] Throughing thinner?
>>>> 
>>>> I throw thin and occasionally I get warping especially on bowls the size of
>>>> the ones Randy is talking about.
>>>> 
>>>> If you're having problems with deformation while the pot is plastic I would
>>>> suggest a) throwing with less water (easier said than done!) and 2) zapping
>>>> it with a blow torch/heatgun before you take it off the wheel.
>>>> 3) Don't trim the base by resting such a large bowl on its rim. I throw a
>>>> large chuck which the centre and strongest part of the bowl rests on.
>>>> It is also important to dry these things as evenly as possible. (Slow is
>>>> not necessarily better, just evenly). The easiest way to do this is put it
>>>> in some sort of box with holes in it.
>>>> 
>>>> None of this really helps with true warpage (as opposed to plastic
>>>> deformation) in the glaze kiln. For that there is really only one
>>>> suggestion and one "real" solution. The first suggestion is to make sure
>>>> your kiln shelves are dead flat - and if possible as even as possible. For
>>>> a large bowl I put it on an extra kiln shelf that I know is flat, and level
>>>> it with fibre or wadding (I don't go overboard on getting it level but I do
>>>> spend a couple of extra minutes).
>>>> 
>>>> But the real solution is ENGINEERING! Design a bowl that can be large and
>>>> thin and won't warp.
>>>> 
>>>> Everyone has a different "look" to their bowl so it's a bit difficult for
>>>> me to advise what to do, but the most obvious thing to do is to thicken up
>>>> your rim. Just like Susie's newspaper trick, a thicker rim will go a fair
>>>> way to preventing warpage. You can then run into the problem that Vince
>>>> mentioned where the pot looks lighter than it "should", however. Personally
>>>> I throw a large flange type lip on my large bowls that is about 25 degrees
>>>> above the horizontal. It actually has a slight curve in it that strengthens
>>>> it, and this flange has a very thick rim on it, which is less noticeable as
>>>> it's edge on to the viewer (the flange itself can be reasonable thin).
>>>> 
>>>> Also consider increasing the diameter of your foot a little. Finally make
>>>> sure the wall of the bowl has a true taper. With the exception of the rim
>>>> (which we've discussed and which should be well compressed!), the walls
>>>> must be as evenly tapered to the top as possible (including the flange, if
>>>> you have one). I once threw a bowl (about 20", wet) where the bottom 1/3
>>>> was either the same thickness or marginally thinner than the top 1/3 and
>>>> the whole thing just sat down around the foot! Basically if you get
>>>> everything as even as possible (and of course this includes as little
>>>> wobble as possible in the thrown form!) then you'll minimize the chance of
>>>> warpage.
>>>> 
>>>> Finally ... try to embrace a little bit of warpage! It's a handmade pot
>>>> after all! I have recently mentioned the diamond lap disc I have for
>>>> smoothing off feet. With a bit of work it can flatten the foot of a warped
>>>> bowl, so that at least there's no rocking.
>>>> 
>>>> Hope that helps,
>>>> 
>>>> Robert
>>>> 
>>>> P.S. I'm happy to send pictures directly of the type of large wide bowls I
>>>> make if anyone is interested.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Thu, Oct 27, 2016 at 8:04 AM, Susie Hite <hiteshome at bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> I don't usually comment, but I understand the desire to throw thinner. I
>>>>> love a lot of the Japanese pottery and it is usually thin. I have
>>>>> unfortunately found that when I throw thin it almost always warps.I feel
>>>>> your pain. The few times I've been successful was when I was able to put a
>>>>> piece of news paper over the rim as soon as it was firm enough not deform
>>>>> the bowl, then when it was leather hard finish drying upside down. Also
>>>>> bisque fire upside down. There's no guarantee it won't warp in the glaze
>>>>> firing. =0(After all that it's still as Vince said very fragile.It's still
>>>>> fun to try every once in a while.
>>>>> Good Luck!!!Susie
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Wednesday, October 26, 2016 9:58 PM, ran mcc <ranmcc at msn.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Guess it was just a thought. Been making pottery for 40 years. No
>>>>> training. No mentors. Pretty isolated from the clay community except for
>>>>> clay art.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> -------- Original message --------
>>>>> From: Vince Pitelka
>>>>> Date:10/26/2016 9:06 PM (GMT-05:00)
>>>>> To: 'Clayart international pottery discussion forum'
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Clayart] Throughing thinner?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hi Randy -
>>>>> I am curious as to why you would want to lighten them up more. "Too
>>>>> light" is a real problem in functional ceramics. Unless this is a
>>>>> conceptual project to produce non-functional "bowls," the weight in your
>>>>> bowls serves an important purpose.
>>>>> - Vince
>>>>> 
>>>>> Vince Pitelka
>>>>> Appalachian Center for Craft
>>>>> Tennessee Tech University
>>>>> vpitelka at dtccom.net
>>>>> https://sites.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Clayart [mailto:clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com] <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com]> On Behalf
>>>>> Of ran mcc
>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:19 AM
>>>>> To: ClayArt <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
>>>>> Subject: [Clayart] Throughing thinner?
>>>>> 
>>>>> I like to throw 12lb bowls that usually will reach to 18 to 19 inches.
>>>>> Using Red Stone from Carolina Clay. 12lb bowls will fire out to about 7lbs
>>>>> with glaze. I would like to get these bowls lighter in final weight. I
>>>>> know I can make sure the bottom is minimum thickness, I know I can trim as
>>>>> much as possible. I just don't want to get warped bowls. Are there some
>>>>> techniques you can share to get pieces as thin and light as possible
>>>>> without causing warping in the fire? Suggestions on maybe a better clay
>>>>> that will hold up better to thin throwing without warping? Any other
>>>>> suggestions? Thanks for any help.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Randy
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