[Clayart] Clayart Digest, Vol 33, Issue 5
george nagel
siletzriver at hotmail.com
Sun Aug 5 03:05:21 EDT 2018
I had a sheet metal shop make a hinged lid at the top of the stack.....I use a pole to flip it open before firing....flip it back at shut down....rains a fair amount on the Oregon coast.....
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Sent: Saturday, August 4, 2018 5:44:22 AM
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Subject: Clayart Digest, Vol 33, Issue 5
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: steel flue on a gas kiln (Gwynneth Rixon)
2. rain hat stack covers (mel jacobson)
3. Re: rain hat stack covers (Gwynneth Rixon)
4. Nichrome Wire (Anita)
5. Re: rain hat stack covers (David Hendley)
6. wonderful reply. (mel jacobson)
7. RAIN CAP (M Gordon)
8. Re: Nichrome Wire (David Hendley)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2018 10:57:37 +0100
From: Gwynneth Rixon <g.z.rixon at gmail.com>
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
<clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
Subject: Re: [Clayart] steel flue on a gas kiln
Message-ID:
<CACW_BP=su=-K+Mg5hnwXkrPjnGY3aAA69pFrZHXTusEnoe332A at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Hi Snail..it came with a third hand kiln, I propped it up on a stack of
bricks, and it worked fine, with a kiln shelf as damper. I had no history
or instructions with the kiln!
Unfortunately the combination of firings, rain running down the flue
despite a "hat" and then being left out in the rain mid move...meant it
went for scrap.
Now I have to design and get made a replacement!
Gwynneth
On Thu, Aug 2, 2018 at 1:33 PM, Snail Scott <claywork at flying-snail.com>
wrote:
>
> On Jul 31, 2018, at 8:31 AM, Gwynneth Rixon <g.z.rixon at gmail.com> wrote:
> > What gauge steel would you make the first part of the flue at the rear of
> > the kiln where the damper also sits,before where the normal stainless
> flue
> > sits?
>
>
> I have only used brick for the lower flue portions. I?m curious about your
> steel version!
>
> Snail Scott
> claywork at flying-snail.com
> www.snailscott.com<http://www.snailscott.com>
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2018 13:39:43 -0500
From: mel jacobson <melpots at visi.com>
To: clay <" clayart"@lists.clayartworld.com.>
Subject: [Clayart] rain hat stack covers
Message-ID: <5B64A16F.5040402 at visi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
i just noted in the last post that the gal had a rain hat/or it
commonly called a Chinaman's hat cover on her kiln.
those covers are really a big NO NO, among kiln builders.
they look nice, sit down over the outlet of the stack, but
are the biggest heat dam you can make for yourself.
the energy of heat coming up a stack is very powerful,
you don't want any impediment to that flow of heat.
nils was the father of turbulence with stacks and
flues...he even claimed that if your kiln stalled...cut
off a foot of stack, or add a foot. your stack is right
in the middle of huge turbulent curve. i think it works.
so. when you build a kiln...make the stack straight up.
vertical. i know that folks call me `straight stack mel`. but
i believe i am correct.
what i suggest is when the stack come through a roof area,
make a nice kaowool packing around the stack and if you
can leave some open space the heat just moves away.
there are all sorts of sheet metal rain deflectors. i use one.
water and snow come down my stack, but it just lands in
the flue stack (hard brick)...dries fast. and, no water runs down
my stack on the outside
when you read the literature of professionals they stress
hard brick base, tightly mortared...no gaps, no air leaks.
and as much airflow as you can get going out the roof.
trapped air/hot air starts fires.
so, we suggest spiral pipe stacks, sitting on top a really
tight hard brick base. no leaks. tight all the way.
kaowool liners.
safe, light to work with, and not so expensive.
mel
--
Mel's Website: www.melpots.com<http://www.melpots.com>
CLAYART PAGE:
http://www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2018 21:28:27 +0100
From: Gwynneth Rixon <g.z.rixon at gmail.com>
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
<clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
Subject: Re: [Clayart] rain hat stack covers
Message-ID:
<CACW_BP=bva2thWF7HWWgv4d_8S15Sa1SuA3pKvpeLbu+epwmqQ at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Interesting comment Mel..I think I might have the hat to cover the flue
when NOT firing...and keep the Scottish wind and rain out !
Gwynneth
On Fri, Aug 3, 2018 at 7:39 PM, mel jacobson <melpots at visi.com> wrote:
> i just noted in the last post that the gal had a rain hat/or it
> commonly called a Chinaman's hat cover on her kiln.
>
> those covers are really a big NO NO, among kiln builders.
>
> they look nice, sit down over the outlet of the stack, but
> are the biggest heat dam you can make for yourself.
>
> the energy of heat coming up a stack is very powerful,
> you don't want any impediment to that flow of heat.
>
> nils was the father of turbulence with stacks and
> flues...he even claimed that if your kiln stalled...cut
> off a foot of stack, or add a foot. your stack is right
> in the middle of huge turbulent curve. i think it works.
>
> so. when you build a kiln...make the stack straight up.
> vertical. i know that folks call me `straight stack mel`. but
> i believe i am correct.
>
> what i suggest is when the stack come through a roof area,
> make a nice kaowool packing around the stack and if you
> can leave some open space the heat just moves away.
> there are all sorts of sheet metal rain deflectors. i use one.
>
> water and snow come down my stack, but it just lands in
> the flue stack (hard brick)...dries fast. and, no water runs down
> my stack on the outside
>
> when you read the literature of professionals they stress
> hard brick base, tightly mortared...no gaps, no air leaks.
> and as much airflow as you can get going out the roof.
> trapped air/hot air starts fires.
>
> so, we suggest spiral pipe stacks, sitting on top a really
> tight hard brick base. no leaks. tight all the way.
> kaowool liners.
> safe, light to work with, and not so expensive.
> mel
>
>
>
> --
> Mel's Website: www.melpots.com<http://www.melpots.com>
> CLAYART PAGE:
> http://www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML
>
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2018 20:52:06 +0000 (UTC)
From: Anita <clayfeat at sbcglobal.net>
To: "clayart at lists.clayartworld.com" <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
Subject: [Clayart] Nichrome Wire
Message-ID: <546317799.1819110.1533329526598 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
I would like to make some covered jars with nichrome wire for the handle on the lid and a side loop for a hanging scoop or spoon.? Any recommendations on an appropriate gauge for the wire??
Thanks!Anita
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2018 17:43:16 -0500
From: "David Hendley" <farmpots at eastex.net>
To: "Clayart international pottery discussion forum"
<clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
Subject: Re: [Clayart] rain hat stack covers
Message-ID: <5D7E90C1A90346CDA1F28345B9468CF7 at owner35282a7a8>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=response
I agree with Mel - no rain cover on a stoneware kiln! The heat and
airflow is just too intense.
I do, however, think it is good practice to keep rain out of your kiln, so
I cover my stack with a couple of old broken kiln shelves. I installed
handles securely on the metal roof over my kiln, so I can climb up
to the roof, grab a handle and safely get up on the roof. Once I am
up there, the handles also work as spots to securely place your feet
while putting the cover on top of the stack.
I cover the top of my stack soon after shutting down the kiln after a
firing, in a effort to slow down cooling. Any air that gets around the
closed damper and up the chimney will be stopped by the cover on
the top.
David Hendley
david at farmpots.com
www.farmpots.com<http://www.farmpots.com>
----- Original Message -----
i just noted in the last post that the gal had a rain hat/or it
commonly called a Chinaman's hat cover on her kiln.
those covers are really a big NO NO, among kiln builders.
they look nice, sit down over the outlet of the stack, but
are the biggest heat dam you can make for yourself.
the energy of heat coming up a stack is very powerful,
you don't want any impediment to that flow of heat.
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2018 19:56:11 -0500
From: mel jacobson <melpots at visi.com>
To: clay <" clayart"@lists.clayartworld.com.>
Subject: [Clayart] wonderful reply.
Message-ID: <5B64F9AB.9090405 at visi.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
at the farm we have old metal wash basins that
we cover the stacks with.
and, we have an oversize kiln shelf that covers the salt kiln during
the winter.
but, i can't reach my stack...at home.
it is just too tall.
so, it matters not...it dries fast.
as you know...the china cap stays on during the firing...it was
understanding that it was on all the time.
made a good story though.
love to all.
mel
--
Mel's Website: www.melpots.com<http://www.melpots.com>
CLAYART PAGE:
http://www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 18:34:10 -0700
From: M Gordon <clayart at earthlink.net>
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
<clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
Subject: [Clayart] RAIN CAP
Message-ID: <27C94476-95F4-11E8-9F94-000A95AA4D6C at earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
I've got an 8ft. sheet metal stack with a rain cap that's 18" above the
top of the stack. No problem & I fire to C/6. Mike Gordon in SMOKEY
Walnut Creek, thanks to the fires in N. Ca.
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2018 20:45:26 -0500
From: "David Hendley" <farmpots at eastex.net>
To: "Clayart international pottery discussion forum"
<clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
Subject: Re: [Clayart] Nichrome Wire
Message-ID: <F2D33D99445144578ADBA32BECB796C2 at owner35282a7a8>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="utf-8";
reply-type=original
Anita - why do you want to use nichrome wire on your jars? Are you planning
on firing the jars with the wire already attached? To me, it makes more sense
to attach the wire after the pot is fired.
When I've attached wire to pots I have used galvanized steel wire - #12 A.S.&W.
(American Steel & Wire) gauge. It's about right for small to medium pots. For
larger and/or more expensive and/or decorative pots, I've used 1/8" brass
rods. This is a slightly larger diameter, and uncoated brass brazing rods from the
welding supply store are just right.
I don't know what measuring system is used to specify the diameter of
nichrome wire.
David Hendley
david at farmpots.com
www.farmpots.com<http://www.farmpots.com>
----- Original Message -----
>I would like to make some covered jars with nichrome wire for the handle on the lid and a side loop
>for a hanging scoop or spoon. Any recommendations on an appropriate gauge for the wire?
> Thanks!Anita
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