[Clayart] Ron Roy fake maiolica problem (Bryan Johnson)

Fri Feb 28 14:30:05 EST 2020

Just an addendum to my last comments on Bryan Johnson's pinholing, crawling
and dripping in Ron Roy's fake maiolica glaze...
Hey Bryan,
I want to clarify my comments on glaze weight. I use a white glaze at 1.41
or so, but if you don't ball mill or if your glazes are short on clay, that
is pretty light. 1.45 and heavier is a little more typical and might be
better for avoiding drips.
You might read the sections in John Britt's books on getting glazes
correctly flocculating (youtube available, too) because he talks with his
usual authority about maximizing good application qualities.
Best,
Jeff
Jeff Lawrence
jefflawr at gmail.com
jeffreylawrence.net

On Fri, Feb 28, 2020 at 10:00 AM <clayart-request at lists.clayartworld.com>
wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: pdf books (mel jacobson)
>    2. Candles & messy melted wax - another option? (Ken Nowicki)
>    3. interactions at interfaces (carol at knighten.org)
>    4. recent work (carol at knighten.org)
>    5. ok, donation day starts (mel jacobson)
>    6. Re: Ron Roy fake maiolica problem (Bryan Johnson) (Jeff Lawrence)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2020 04:18:21 +0100
> From: "mel jacobson" <melpots at mail.com>
> To: clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] pdf books
> Message-ID:
>
> <trinity-f5cba010-0636-4e4b-8b0d-e40370c7eabe-1582859900416 at 3c-app-mailcom-lxa01
> >
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
> website: www.melpots.com
>
>
> > Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 7:20 PM
> > From: "robert hackert" <ndiaman at hotmail.com>
> > To: "Clayart international pottery discussion forum" <
> clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Clayart] pdf books
> >
> > Thank you Mel.
> > Rob Hackert
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Feb 27, 2020, at 7:12 PM, mel jacobson <melpots at mail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > ?it has been good to send out the many copies of the
> > > kiln book and downfiring books...folks again have responded
> > > well today.  in many ways the pdf copies will allow you to print off
> > > pages, or plans as onsite reference.  i did send a copy in pdf
> > > form to all that purchased the kiln book.  (at least those that
> > > asked, or i had emails from.
> > >
> > > there is no cost for the pdf files, and you can send them
> > > to others that may find value in them...or send them to
> > > a school or art center.  we just want the information `out there`.
> > > and best of all, the information is accurate.
> > > mel
> > >
> > > website:
> https://nam03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=www.melpots.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C0e28a669900741a8983d08d7bbe2dff2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637184455396661465&sdata=bmL6vdAvTud8%2Bzo1lKltLZYHlbF7Od5WwstyVn07leI%3D&reserved=0
> > >
> >
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2020 20:19:59 -0800
> From: Ken Nowicki <kenjnowicki at gmail.com>
> To: "CLAYART (Post messages only)" <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Subject: [Clayart] Candles & messy melted wax - another option?
> Message-ID: <D2CDA270-8519-4671-ADF1-9880CA050005 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Just an FYI... I discovered this company recently that sells candles that
> burn pure liquid wax through a wick, instead of the actual wax candle . You
> simply refill the candle when it runs dry, sort of like an oil lamp, but it
> has a twist on lid. The lid can leak slightly if tipped over, but not very
> much. It?s because there is a very tiny hole in the lid to allow the liquid
> to flow freely to the wick.  Their candles will not melt, drip, or leak in
> normal use. There are? quite a few elegant options to choose from, though
> they are not cheap, however it doesn?t appear you?d ever need to replace
> them either. I decided to try a few to see if we like them, just got them
> recently and they seem quite nice. No more messy candle wax! Buy once, cry
> once! Hahaha!
>
> ?https://www.lucidcandle.com/
>
> - Ken
>
>
> Mel wrote:
>
> Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2020 18:24:55 +0100
> From: "mel jacobson" <melpots at mail.com>
> To: clay <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Subject: [Clayart] candles
> Message-ID:
>
>  <trinity-67e4c9e9-9bb6-4a1c-89c7-1778e7a54ed9-1582824295108 at 3c-app-mailcom-lxa07
> >
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> i agree with sir ron.  metal is far best.
> any fired clay pot will work, but i don't do it.
> i never sell candle holders.  no need to take the risk.
>
> i do use flat plates to set candles on. wide open...not
> trapped heat. i hate that hot wax going on my good furniture.
> (we all do)  burning lots of candles means that at some point,
> you burn your house down. (just a theory.)  ask the fire man.
> mel
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2020 00:43:03 -0800
> From: carol at knighten.org
> To: clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
> Subject: [Clayart] interactions at interfaces
> Message-ID: <24152.53911.662079.678622 at hera.knighten.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Re Jeff's question of what's happening at the interface:
>
> Yes, of course those effects are ephemeral - do you see any pots anywhere
> that
> have those colors on any large section?  Those colors individually
> aren't powerful as they seem in bits and pieces in the frozen
> "explosion" of the interaction.  The brightness of those colors is in the
> contrast between, as in Scotch plaids.
>
> For many micro-crystals, its as with copper red, color depends on size.
> There
> is a size 'window' for each color, some of the colors have larger windows,
> some itsy windows.
>
> Interaction across an interface, allows a large range of sizes to form,
> then
> 'freeze' in that size.  In this sort of dynamic 'happening' you will see a
> greater range of textures and colors than otherwise.  You will see bits of
> the
> colors that are visible only in a narrow size range.
>
> I've got an another example where increasing alumia/silica increases the
> fusibility of the glaze.  Extra alumina causes those golden metallic micro
> crystals to form.  Its is high alkali glaze, with a high alkali:alumina
> ratio,
> but no lithium.  That change is structure with increased silica or alumina
> isn't a function of the lithium.
>
> Most of my saturated iron glazes are alkali mattes, which are well known
> to go
> glossy and homogenized with increased silica.  I'd never before known that
> alkali mattes went homogenized and glossy with increased alumina.  If you
> look
> at the land of glaze through the lense of alkali-alumia ratio, though its
> not
> surprisiing.  What makes an alkali matte isn't how much alkali it has,
> rather
> how much alkali and how little alumina, i.e. the alkali:alumina ratio.
>
> Carol
> --
> ============================
>     Carol Marians
>     (541) 296-4528
>   carol at knighten.org
> http://carol.knighten.org
> ============================
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2020 01:57:07 -0800
> From: carol at knighten.org
> To: clayart at lists.clayartworld.com
> Subject: [Clayart] recent work
> Message-ID: <24152.58355.347597.348824 at hera.knighten.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Hi
>
> More Interaction of abutting glazes:
>
> http://carol.knighten.org/2020-GlazeTests/2020-02-28-glazeInteractions-2/
>
> Carol
>
> --
> ============================
>     Carol Marians
>     (541) 296-4528
>   carol at knighten.org
> http://carol.knighten.org
> ============================
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2020 14:16:55 +0100
> From: "mel jacobson" <melpots at mail.com>
> To: clay <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Subject: [Clayart] ok, donation day starts
> Message-ID:
>
> <trinity-1e4e4b14-4a29-44b8-84f2-d0fd33ffe4f8-1582895815561 at 3c-app-mailcom-lxa15
> >
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> i sorted out the address for the
> clayart page. you can click below and go
> directly to the clayart page that has the
> paypal app.  or, my home address. a small donation
> is all i ask for.
>
> while there,you can gaze at the black shino teapot
> and the mel6 clay body and speckled glaze cone 7.
>
> i lost my visi.com address a few months back and this
> mail.com system did not have the clayart page address below.
> i got it fixed.
> mel
>
> website: www.melpots.com
> www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2020 08:01:50 -0700
> From: Jeff Lawrence <jefflawr at gmail.com>
> To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum
>         <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] Ron Roy fake maiolica problem (Bryan Johnson)
> Message-ID:
>         <
> CAB7f+YM4te2Y--1hAT9n-XpmM7RJMUY5f+Wzpr1h3ZFzXDvArw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Bryan wrote:
> I?ve tried this recipe and love the results but it has pin holes,
> crawls, leaves running drips and is very powdery. Any suggestions to
> correct these problems?
>
> Hi Bryan,
> When I've had these problems, I've found the following to help:
> - CMC is a big help, though a pain to mix in retroactively; best is to mix
> it into the dry ingredients, then sieve the slop, but with a wand mixer and
> a couple of days to settle, you can make a CMC syrup to add to existing
> batches (start with hot water and give it a couple of days to de-air). If
> you add dry CMC to a wet batch it creates globs of floating gelatin.
> - Ball milling is a great way to disperse things like zircopax and
> wollastonite, which cluster together to cause mischief even sieved 80m.
> - Make sure glaze is thin enough so it can mate well with your bisque; for
> my white glaze, I like about 1.41 but my ball milling helps bring down
> usable weight. If you've already hit low 1.40's and it settles or applies
> too thin (test on bisque) you can raise viscosity and application thickness
> epsom salt solution (added very carefully or you'll get a bucket of
> pudding.)
> Regarding the right weight, I'm sure you know that any glaze with visible
> cracks or pinholes when dry is very likely to fall apart in some way in the
> firing. I've tried optimism and thinking pure thoughts about a different
> outcome but found it generally futile.
> Or maybe the answer is to say no to the fake maiolica and  find yourself a
> genuine maiolica  - somebody has to keep tin mines busy!
>
> Jeff
> Jeff Lawrence
> jefflawr at gmail.com
> jeffreylawrence.net
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