[Clayart] pyrometers/laser

[ronroy at ca.inter.net]

Every new pyrometer I ever put into service needed to be calibrated  
with cones. Every one gave a different reading. There is a screw on  
the front to make adjustments.

In my first gas kiln (over 1000 firings over 35 years) I had to  
replace it once. I did move it around a bit, having it in a porcelain  
sheath is recommended especially if firing in other than strictly  
oxidation atmosphere.

RR


Quoting mel jacobson <melpots at mail.com>:

> Analog Pyrometers"
> I have been in touch with an engineer from
> a company out east that makes them.  We talked
> at length about analog pyrometers.  He was the
> fellow that tipped me off about tiny dust mites
> and how they can get in the "clock mechanism" and screw things
> up. He is an expert. I listened. (moving them around and
> dropping them, smacking them causes the dust to move.)
>
> And, yes, he said they are good "toys" and get a
> good digital unit. And, yes I have one in both potteries.
>
> He also tipped me off to
> the fact that laser reading pyrometers
> are now selling for $50.  I ordered one at Amazon and
> will start testing with all my firings. they read to
> 2750F.
>
> This study that I am doing is serious. I want to be able
> to match cones to analog, digital and laser pyrometers...and
> get them all to read the same, at the same time.
>
> I want to be able to mark the plastic front with  colored
> sharpies that match the cones...the numbers do not mean much.
> the mark will tell the tale.  In Minnetonka, when the dial hits
> a red mark at about 2450 the kiln is done.  When the red dot
> is reached, cone 11 is half over. By the time I shut down the
> kiln, cone 11 is just touching cone 10.
>
> I will share all with clayart.
> So, if you can help me, great.
> mel
>
>
> website: www.melpots.com
> www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML
>
>



Ron Roy
ronroy at ca.inter.net
Web page ronroy.net