[Clayart] glazing questions/

John Rodgers jrodgers113 at gmail.com
Sat Oct 9 22:13:43 UTC 2021

David, I should have mentioned the finger dip. It does tell you much.
Although I don't generally use it on glazes, I sure do in slips. Lots of
flocculation/deflocculation in slips. As opposed to Darvan or other, I much
prefer sodium silicate and magnesium sulfate to control the flocculating
process in slips. I will say the Darvan is more forgiving than the
silicate. You can make a mess quickly with the silicate.

On Sat, Oct 9, 2021 at 4:25 PM David Woof <woofpots at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hi John and Mel, Everyone,
> "Just sayin" When Running any distance, I get my rhythm set on a three
> step count during inhale, two steps per exhale.
> When I check the viscosity of a glaze I also consider and observe the
> rheology of that glaze slop.
> I dip one Dry forefinger into the slop and withdraw and watch the glaze
> drip off, and also observe if air trapped in my dry finger print whorls
> escape as bubbles which rise and burst at the surface of the dipped finger.
> Which these bubbles must do if my muttered or mental timing count is to be
> accurate.
> I then adjust glaze slop or my timing with this information, as I also
> consider if the particular glaze is flocculated or deflocculated as well.
> These factors are all important to understand as they all contribute to
> success or failure and generate questions like "why is this sh-- happening
> now when it was working so well before."
> ***Not having to be burdened with using time consuming devices lets me
> focus on ideas and the nudging creative caress of my Muse.
> Misneach,
> David Woof.............................O my! so sorry!!!!! As i glance out
> my window I observe that a Weekender from California just attempted to
> troll his rig thru my gnarly weed bed as the incoming tide is concealing
> everything below the surface. This river ain't for the ignorant or
> faint-hearted little boys and girls!!!
> *******************************************************************************************
> ________________________________
> From: Clayart <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com> on behalf of John
> Rodgers <jrodgers113 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 9, 2021 9:24 AM
> To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum <
> clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] glazing questions/
> Though I do a good bit of wheel work and slab building now, I began clay
> work doing slip casting, mostly with porcelain. That later expanded to
> include B-MIX specifically for pottery purposes. The porcelain remained in
> the realm of figurines. But with both, I made/make my own slip. Viscosity
> with these is critically important. When I began making pottery I realized
> having the right viscosity for a particular glaze was important. It affects
> how much glaze material adheres to the bisqued pot for a specific time of
> immersion. I most often dip my pots. I check the thickness of a glaze
> before dipping using a viscosimeter - basically a cup with a calibrated
> orifice in the bottom. When filled with glaze, the time to drain completely
> through the orifice is the measure of the viscosity. This operation is
> pretty much like Mel says. My operation is not near as big as his, so I
> just use the small commercial viscosimeter. It's basically the
> viscosimeter you can pick up at your local paint store. However, I get mine
> from New Mexico Clay. I prefer this because I also use this to measure the
> viscosity of my clay slip. But I think mine and Mel's technique is pretty
> much the same. His tools are homemade, I bought mine ready made. But the
> goal is the same. Right viscosity, flow, and time equals excellent glaze
> application, and most likely an exquisitely finished pot.
> On Sat, Oct 9, 2021 at 7:28 AM mel jacobson <melpots at mail.com> wrote:
> > I have had several folks email me with questions about precision glazing.
> > Japanese technique.
> >
> > Two basic things are- a good clock with a big second hand, and dippers
> for
> > the glaze bucket.
> >
> > In kyoto we used a big old electric clock with the hour and minute hand
> > cut off.
> > you counted the seconds the glaze was in the bucket, or seconds an open
> > pot was full of glaze.
> > in most cases 10 seconds was max. of course we tested the water content,
> > or thickness of all glazes.
> >
> > A dipper was in each bucket. about a cup of glaze. I use old broom
> handles
> > and measuring cups from
> > the dollar store.  I gorilla glue them and then wrap with duct tape.
>  The
> > dipper is a perfect stirring
> > tool before you use the glaze each time.  for example...you fill a large
> > mug with white glaze, count
> > to six seconds, pour it out. every mug gets the same timing. next you
> stir
> > again, hold the mug upside down
> > and push into the colored glaze. six seconds...pull out and rotate the
> mug
> > so the drop of glaze goes around
> > the rim one time. (in japan we used about 90 percent white glaze so it
> was
> > very easy...just stir, fill and
> > pour and rotate. Timing was always the same.
> >
> > If you layer glazes, develop a timing for each dip.  So, base glaze 4
> > seconds, 2 second dip in glaze 2 and
> > 1 second in glaze 3.  As time goes on, you learn the seconds that each
> > glaze is in the bucket.
> >
> > So, in my case I am much more casual as I have been glazing for 60 years.
> > I can stick my finger in a
> > glaze and say to self...`2 cups of water`. I know shino is in the bucket
> > for 6 seconds. it is a thick glaze.
> >
> > I only use gum in one glaze. that gets 2 seconds extra, as it not the
> > glaze that is thick, it is the gum.
> >
> > So, for my white glaze I use a two cup plastic measuring cup with a nice
> > sharp spout. no drips.
> >
> > Between Tonka and Farm I must have about 50 dippers of various sizes.
> Some
> > glazes are only decorative so
> > I use a quarter cup measure.
> >
> > I do not use very much hot wax on my pot bottoms. Don't need it. My foot
> > rings fit my fingers.  my faceted
> > mugs have nice angles to grab for dipping. I am conscious of glazing when
> > cutting foot rings. I never make
> > `pseudopod rings`...false feet. I test the grab for glazing.
> >
> > If I have dozens of one type of pot, I sit and have the buckets between
> my
> > legs...glaze and place on boards
> > on the table next to me. Standing for hours glazing is a big pain.  I
> find
> > ways to sit.
> >
> > I start each glaze sessions by cleaning up tables and floor. I use an
> > electric drill motor with a good
> > paint mixing tool. I keep it in the buckets for minutes to get all the
> > materials mixed. Then the dipper
> > can just pick up the sunken thick glaze and bring it to the top.  Don't
> > glaze your pots with colored water,
> > the good stuff is on the bottom. A great deal of glaze drops to the
> bottom
> > in ten minutes.  The most important
> > issue is the dipper always stirring the glaze before you dip.  It does
> > become automatic.  And, the dollar store
> > has all kinds of measuring cups with handles. They work well. Of course
> > here we have about a thousand scrap wood
> > handles in our wood shop.  You can always go to the big box store and get
> > dowel rod. (have you checked prices? a sheet
> > of 3/4 inch plywood. $85.)  But, we always save the handles on old brooms
> > and such.
> > So, some thoughts,
> > Mel
> >
> >
> >
> > website: www.melpots.com<http://www.melpots.com>
> > www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML<http://www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML>
> >
> >
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