[Clayart] glazing questions/

David Woof woofpots at hotmail.com
Sun Oct 10 03:47:41 UTC 2021

John, what you say so well illustrates the demands of our intimately knowing the character and intrinsic qualities of the materials we work with.
You have always been a welcome "stand out" in this regard!!!  I've always read your posts with interest.

Be well,

David Woof..............................Eat the best healthy Vegies one can find, drink moderately the best fine wine one can afford, love deeply and often!!!!

From: Clayart <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com> on behalf of John Rodgers <jrodgers113 at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 9, 2021 4:13 PM
To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
Subject: Re: [Clayart] glazing questions/

David, I should have mentioned the finger dip. It does tell you much.
Although I don't generally use it on glazes, I sure do in slips. Lots of
flocculation/deflocculation in slips. As opposed to Darvan or other, I much
prefer sodium silicate and magnesium sulfate to control the flocculating
process in slips. I will say the Darvan is more forgiving than the
silicate. You can make a mess quickly with the silicate.

On Sat, Oct 9, 2021 at 4:25 PM David Woof <woofpots at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hi John and Mel, Everyone,
> "Just sayin" When Running any distance, I get my rhythm set on a three
> step count during inhale, two steps per exhale.
> When I check the viscosity of a glaze I also consider and observe the
> rheology of that glaze slop.
> I dip one Dry forefinger into the slop and withdraw and watch the glaze
> drip off, and also observe if air trapped in my dry finger print whorls
> escape as bubbles which rise and burst at the surface of the dipped finger.
> Which these bubbles must do if my muttered or mental timing count is to be
> accurate.
> I then adjust glaze slop or my timing with this information, as I also
> consider if the particular glaze is flocculated or deflocculated as well.
> These factors are all important to understand as they all contribute to
> success or failure and generate questions like "why is this sh-- happening
> now when it was working so well before."
> ***Not having to be burdened with using time consuming devices lets me
> focus on ideas and the nudging creative caress of my Muse.
> Misneach,
> David Woof.............................O my! so sorry!!!!! As i glance out
> my window I observe that a Weekender from California just attempted to
> troll his rig thru my gnarly weed bed as the incoming tide is concealing
> everything below the surface. This river ain't for the ignorant or
> faint-hearted little boys and girls!!!
> *******************************************************************************************
> ________________________________
> From: Clayart <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com> on behalf of John
> Rodgers <jrodgers113 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 9, 2021 9:24 AM
> To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum <
> clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] glazing questions/
> Though I do a good bit of wheel work and slab building now, I began clay
> work doing slip casting, mostly with porcelain. That later expanded to
> include B-MIX specifically for pottery purposes. The porcelain remained in
> the realm of figurines. But with both, I made/make my own slip. Viscosity
> with these is critically important. When I began making pottery I realized
> having the right viscosity for a particular glaze was important. It affects
> how much glaze material adheres to the bisqued pot for a specific time of
> immersion. I most often dip my pots. I check the thickness of a glaze
> before dipping using a viscosimeter - basically a cup with a calibrated
> orifice in the bottom. When filled with glaze, the time to drain completely
> through the orifice is the measure of the viscosity. This operation is
> pretty much like Mel says. My operation is not near as big as his, so I
> just use the small commercial viscosimeter. It's basically the
> viscosimeter you can pick up at your local paint store. However, I get mine
> from New Mexico Clay. I prefer this because I also use this to measure the
> viscosity of my clay slip. But I think mine and Mel's technique is pretty
> much the same. His tools are homemade, I bought mine ready made. But the
> goal is the same. Right viscosity, flow, and time equals excellent glaze
> application, and most likely an exquisitely finished pot.
> On Sat, Oct 9, 2021 at 7:28 AM mel jacobson <melpots at mail.com> wrote:
> > I have had several folks email me with questions about precision glazing.
> > Japanese technique.
> >
> > Two basic things are- a good clock with a big second hand, and dippers
> for
> > the glaze bucket.
> >
> > In kyoto we used a big old electric clock with the hour and minute hand
> > cut off.
> > you counted the seconds the glaze was in the bucket, or seconds an open
> > pot was full of glaze.
> > in most cases 10 seconds was max. of course we tested the water content,
> > or thickness of all glazes.
> >
> > A dipper was in each bucket. about a cup of glaze. I use old broom
> handles
> > and measuring cups from
> > the dollar store.  I gorilla glue them and then wrap with duct tape.
>  The
> > dipper is a perfect stirring
> > tool before you use the glaze each time.  for example...you fill a large
> > mug with white glaze, count
> > to six seconds, pour it out. every mug gets the same timing. next you
> stir
> > again, hold the mug upside down
> > and push into the colored glaze. six seconds...pull out and rotate the
> mug
> > so the drop of glaze goes around
> > the rim one time. (in japan we used about 90 percent white glaze so it
> was
> > very easy...just stir, fill and
> > pour and rotate. Timing was always the same.
> >
> > If you layer glazes, develop a timing for each dip.  So, base glaze 4
> > seconds, 2 second dip in glaze 2 and
> > 1 second in glaze 3.  As time goes on, you learn the seconds that each
> > glaze is in the bucket.
> >
> > So, in my case I am much more casual as I have been glazing for 60 years.
> > I can stick my finger in a
> > glaze and say to self...`2 cups of water`. I know shino is in the bucket
> > for 6 seconds. it is a thick glaze.
> >
> > I only use gum in one glaze. that gets 2 seconds extra, as it not the
> > glaze that is thick, it is the gum.
> >
> > So, for my white glaze I use a two cup plastic measuring cup with a nice
> > sharp spout. no drips.
> >
> > Between Tonka and Farm I must have about 50 dippers of various sizes.
> Some
> > glazes are only decorative so
> > I use a quarter cup measure.
> >
> > I do not use very much hot wax on my pot bottoms. Don't need it. My foot
> > rings fit my fingers.  my faceted
> > mugs have nice angles to grab for dipping. I am conscious of glazing when
> > cutting foot rings. I never make
> > `pseudopod rings`...false feet. I test the grab for glazing.
> >
> > If I have dozens of one type of pot, I sit and have the buckets between
> my
> > legs...glaze and place on boards
> > on the table next to me. Standing for hours glazing is a big pain.  I
> find
> > ways to sit.
> >
> > I start each glaze sessions by cleaning up tables and floor. I use an
> > electric drill motor with a good
> > paint mixing tool. I keep it in the buckets for minutes to get all the
> > materials mixed. Then the dipper
> > can just pick up the sunken thick glaze and bring it to the top.  Don't
> > glaze your pots with colored water,
> > the good stuff is on the bottom. A great deal of glaze drops to the
> bottom
> > in ten minutes.  The most important
> > issue is the dipper always stirring the glaze before you dip.  It does
> > become automatic.  And, the dollar store
> > has all kinds of measuring cups with handles. They work well. Of course
> > here we have about a thousand scrap wood
> > handles in our wood shop.  You can always go to the big box store and get
> > dowel rod. (have you checked prices? a sheet
> > of 3/4 inch plywood. $85.)  But, we always save the handles on old brooms
> > and such.
> > So, some thoughts,
> > Mel
> >
> >
> >
> > website: www.melpots.com<http://www.melpots.com>
> > www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML<http://www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML><http://www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML<http://www.melpots.com/CLAYART.HTML>>
> >
> >
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