[Clayart] sawdust instead of straw in primitive kiln

paul gerhold gerholdclay at gmail.com
Mon Apr 4 12:50:03 UTC 2022


Too much effort in an attempt to make clay do something it really isn't ever going to be good at. Clay can make a great coffee or tea mug but it isn't ever going to be the best material for reducing heat transfer.

Paul

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 4, 2022, at 7:26 AM, David Woof <woofpots at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Ron, Everyone,
> Also, with a bit of good clay, manual dexterity and finesse one can learn to throw a double walled pot with insulating "dead air space" between at a single throwing.
> 
> Not a new idea, but often forgotten or disregarded as too difficult to master in "precious" time one allows.
> Not so!  Sit down..relax and by the second or third attempt "ya gets it"
> 
> Misneach,
> 
> Woof....who ain't afraid to try.........If at first you don't Fricassee.......fry, fry a hen!!!
> *****************************************************************************
> ________________________________
> From: Clayart <clayart-bounces at lists.clayartworld.com> on behalf of ronroy at ca.inter.net <ronroy at ca.inter.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 3, 2022 10:45 AM
> To: Clayart international pottery discussion forum <clayart at lists.clayartworld.com>; L TURNER <magnolia.mud.list at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Clayart] sawdust instead of straw in primitive kiln
> 
> You can also put two pots together with an air space between. I've
> seen this done with slip cast forms. I'm thinking, if ones repeatable
> throwing skills are good, it could be done.
> 
> Certainly would eliminate the need for handles.
> 
> RR
> 
> 
> Quoting L TURNER <magnolia.mud.list at gmail.com>:
> 
>> Robert,
>> 
>> (I fire at cone 10 gas reduction).
>> 
>> I have been playing with laminated clay bodies.    using a standard cone 10
>> clay body and applying a mixture of kaolins only as a paste for the outer
>> layer.  The outler layer fired to cone 10 is still absorbant (aka: has fine
>> holes in the kaolin layer).   so far, I have no problem with the interface
>> of the two layers.  For thrown ware, I apply the tacky (but not a slip)
>> kaolin paste to the form near the final step of throwing.  On handbuilt
>> ware the paste is added after the form is completed.
>> 
>> If you were to use a similar layer between your inside surface clay body
>> and your outside clay body, you might get the "insulation for hot drinks"
>> you were looking for.
>> 
>> If you are using a mid temperature clay body, then use a high fire course
>> clay body for the middle layer, or just use the sawdust clay as a middle
>> layer.
>> 
>> LT
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Apr 2, 2022 at 6:55 AM Robert Harris <robertgharris at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I've put sawdust in clay. Biggest problem is that it caused serious
>>> pinholing in the glazes. Otherwise it fired just fine.
>>> Obviously it depends how much you put in! (My aim was to produce a piece
>>> with enough air gaps that it would provide insulation for hot drinks,
>>> didn't really work).
>>> 
>>> We also wad all of the posts in our kiln, even in a regular reduction
>>> firing, and we use sawdust (about 25-30% by weight which is probably >60%
>>> by volume), makes the wadding just crumble right off.
>>> 
>>> Not sure what your aim is, by adding sawdust.
>>> The long fibers in paper help stabilise the clay, but sawdust won't provide
>>> that.
>>> 
>>>> On Fri, 1 Apr 2022 at 11:29, Carolyn Curran <cncpots2 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> My inarticulate bad.   Sorry I confused you.  I intended to add  sawdust
>>>> IN  the clay body along with vermiculite or perlite and grog...sort of a
>>>> paper clay situation, since straw and sawdust both  have cellulose.  I
>>>> would probably wet it so there won't be particles flying through air.
>>>> With my  COPD and chronic bronchitis,  I  don't think I'd play with a
>>>> sawdust firing, although we have a trash can with holes here that was
>>>> probably used in that way.  (Heck,  I only use   non toxic iiquid
>>>> combustibles  for any raku..have a bottle of
>>>> high test  Everclear booze for the purpose, use sparingly at bottom of
>>>> combustion chamber..  I have had great success with the alcohol with
>>> small
>>>> scale work in  old Aim test kiln with one vase almost 8" tall which was
>>>> super unique in  subtle coloration. It is still a  big favorite.
>>> Carolyn)
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> 
> 
> 
> Ron Roy
> ronroy at ca.inter.net
> Web page ronroy.net
> 
> 
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